Emandwa: Ugandan healers who speak to the spirit that lives in the snake

The brothers went to live on Bugala Island, the largest of the Sisi Islands, where the snake took the name Lowala.

The boy built a shrine for his serpent sister, and the Abbasid tribe began to worship and seek advice from Lawala.

His problem-solving skills became so famous that people from distant cities came to ask for help.

The human brother acted as an intermediary He became the first in a long line of traditional healers who still exist today.

They call themselves com. emandwaWhat does it mean “The man with a soul on his head“And they are the only people who can talk to Luwala.

There can only be one Imandua at a time, and he must be chosen by his ancestors and the spirit, to devote the rest of his life to Luwala.

Fascinated by Luala's story, she traveled to Bugala Island, home of the serpent spirit, to search for the imandua.

Finding Bugala was easy, however Finding emandwa turns out to be almost impossible.

usually, No visitors allowed My questions were met with blank stares.

Only later in the evening, after a few beers and plates of fried tilapia at a bar with the island's mayor, was my request heard.

The next morning, I arrived at the secret place where the sanctuary was located.

Upon my arrival, I was greeted by a boy who told me that the snake spirit already knew I was there, but that the elders had to be consulted before I could meet the Immandua.

After hours, They gave me permission and the emandua arrived.

It wasn't what I imagined: he arrived riding a motorcycle Without pain or gloryHe is dressed like any other resident of the island in pants, a shirt and plastic shoes.

“Lubala Simon,” he said, pointing to himself. Then he took out a bright pipe and filled it with tobacco.

“You are at Luala's house,” Lubala Simone began, opening her arms wide theatrically. “This is where the snake spirit lives.”

I looked around: it could be any city, except for a few small details. In the distance, a fire surrounded by spears burned next to a large shed with decorations.

There was silence and I felt like I was in a private place. Holy place.

“When the spirit speaks to me, it sits on my head and communicates with me through my body,” Lubala Simone told me. “There are few people who can become Imandu.”

Many stories have been told about these healers, whose sheer powers and ability to communicate with the Luwala made them important players in the history of Central and East Africa.

In fact, the Sisi Islands are still considered One of the spiritual centers in the country.

According to legend, one of the largest tribal groups in what is now Uganda, the Buganda, asked the Imandwa to help them defeat a rival tribe, and the Imandwa gave them A wand made from an enchanted tree To achieve victory.

The Buganda kings still carry that baton.

The tree, which they say is still in one of the remaining virgin forests on the island, Busua, caught my eye, and I asked Lubala Simon if I could see it.

He explained to me that it took about an hour to get there on foot. As we walked, people were openly staring at us, and everyone kept a certain distance from Lubala Simone, who was I didn't talk to anyone.

Some men carrying machetes joined us; Our guards, whose job was to protect the forest from intruders.

The Bossua Forest turned out to be a disappointment. It has practically disappeared in its entirety They are rented out for palm oil production by elderly people who need income.

The trees that were still standing didn't look like they were haunted, but I still wanted to see what the most sacred tree looked like.

When I crossed a small wooded valley I found above a majestic and ancient stream. also It was dead: He looked like a hollow version of what he once was.

Lubala Simon approached him, touched him gently and watched him sincerely.

“We will continue to use it, however The snake spirit had already prepared other treesHe said as he headed towards a younger tree.

But the trees are not the only thing special about this place. Lubala Simon collects moss to perform rituals while she sees it.

On our way back to the compound, we were joined by the little boy I had received a few hours earlier.

Carefully selected by adults through Imandua messages, He is the guardian of the snake spirit. Your work consists of Keep the fire burning 24 hours a day; If it is extinguished, the soul will be disturbed.

He told me that he sleeps with his cabin doors open and that he is not afraid of snakes coming and going. To him they are just Luala and her children.

The young man and Lubala Simon took me to the sanctuary. I took off my shoes and walked out the entrance.

Lubala watched Simone start the fire, surrounded by tobacco bowls, necklaces, seashells, dried fruits, bones, coffee beans, and paper money.

“Offers, gifts and paymentsHe said, holding a bowl in each of his hands.

“People ask for everything: Fertility, wealth and protection. Sometimes they want something bad to happen. If what you want is too complex, you have to get the job done. “If they do that, maybe Luwala will get their wish.”

We left the shed covered in soot and smoke.

Later, one of the elders told me that many had to move to the city for work which is what modern life is made of The children no longer want to be Imandu Because it is a lifelong commitment.

The number of believers is also decreasing: Christianity and Islam are the main religions on the island, and traditional gods are abandoned and even viewed as evil.

But the old man also explained to me that this was a misunderstanding, and that Lawala is not bad. It is simply “a spirit, and spirits decide what they want to be.”.

It is difficult to know how many people still worship him because belief in the lwala is a private practice and visits to the shrine are not even talked about publicly.

“More and more ancient practices are disappearing. Our land, our own places, us.

“But Luwala, the snake spirit and our ancestors, is immortal. He was here before all else. We will always protect him.”