Maria de Valderrama
Paris, January 22 (EFE). Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of Spain’s Loewe, looks at the coming decade with the positivity he wanted today to pour into his men’s fall-winter 2022/23 collection, in which he explored the limits of the virtual world and played with technology he elegantly incorporated into clothing.
Dozens of colorful ribbons, hanging like flags, welcomed guests to the stadium of the Paris Tennis Club, where Anderson wanted to re-create an atmosphere of hope and optimism, in an installation designed by artists Joe Macchia and Edgar Mossa.
The first models appeared on the catwalk with a net that completely covered their bodies with lights that seemed to come from inside the body. But what Anderson suggested was not a purely futuristic, for he successfully inserted LEDs into the details of coats, into the lapel of trench coats or into the waistband of trousers.
Anderson explained to the press behind the scenes.
The brand followed in the footsteps of the popular women’s collection, which was shown in September in Paris, in the brand’s first in-person show since March 2020.
This new discourse that Anderson explores in his collections talks about reality and a virtual world that is increasingly present, which tries to anchor each day with insignificant things, like the steel drain filter—yes, the tub and shower filter—which in this collection becomes a brooch form and pattern.
“We have to think about the role of clothing in an increasingly digital world. This collection is about looking at the ordinary and making it ornate, about the evolution of the wardrobe in the context of suppressing gender boundaries, and revising the classic style of clothing….”
In her latest women’s collection, where she sculpted broken eggs and nail polish as if they were heels, the pop formula was a hit, while today’s audience also seemed to be enjoying these unexpected little details in a home that is a benchmark for elegance and quality.
This review of the classics is seen in sailor shirts, organized on the inside with huge panels in the shape of giant hearts. The jeans were complemented by wire straps with the friendly word “Hello” written on it, and the bags became ankle-high boots.
It was also interesting that the undershirts, illustrated with photos of the models wearing them, appeared to reveal a dual identity, an inner world protected from what appears on the net.
Loewe left no one out of the men’s wardrobe, each updated with lights, graphics, or metallic inlays. He also reshaped the tailored coat, which included a waistband as if they were two pockets, adding new volume at the hip.
Knit jumpers transform into gloves with bows that clean the floor, while handbags are light-up seashells.
Also featured in accessories were the perforated nappa leather Tote and the rectangular Amazona bag, while the iconic Flamenco handbag, one of the company’s bestsellers, was decorated with shells or converted into a pair of shoes. EFE
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